Where to eat and sleep
A non-exhaustive, curated list of great spots in the valley that have been tested and approved in the real world, not on Tripadvisor.
Dove mangiare e dormire
Una lista non-esaustiva dei migliori luoghi della Valle provati nel mondo reale, non con Tripadvisor.
FOR A HOTEL & SUPERB DINING
So any great reasons to like Sesterzio, not least because this family-run restaurant also make stellar wines (including a rare Valtellina-native sparkling wine that merits its own celebration), but also because owner Nicola is a keen runner and regularly organises runs + aperitivo evenings. They'll prepare virtually anything for diners, and while they really know their meats, they're also able to serve up some of the valley's most creative vegetarian meals around.
Of course, they also dish up sublime versions of Valtellina's specialities of pizzoccherie and sciatt.
For pizza (& proper regional food too)
Sisti is a staple for truly delicious pizza, and as it has been in the same family since 1891 you'll expect that they know a thing or two about pizzas. Their menu is vast, with all of the local specialities covered to a superb standard, and pizzas that will leave you scratching your head with indecision. Great vibe, especially on the terrace on long, summer evenings.
For goats cheese
Azienda Agricola Sopralapanca
Alongside maintaining Postalesio's best trails and unearthing at least one ancient route each year, Dario & Cristina also make sublime goats cheese and yoghurt. All organically produced with the utmost respect for their lovingly bred goats (who, it must be said, lead a great life). Everything is super fresh and sold at a range of stores in the valley, or come directly to village and they'll gladly introduce you to the goats and point you in the direction of some great runs.
FOR CAKE AFTER A CLIMB OR MTN RUN
Open all year-round, this tucked-away restaurant in a small cluster of houses at 1,100 metres is one of the most welcoming places around. Use it as a base for a run up to Monte Rolle or the Croce (the trails from here are AMAZING), or simply call in after riding up from Sondrio or Triangia. Competitively priced with great portion sizes, this is a great place for refuelling and recuperating.
MORE TO COME TO THIS NON-EXHAUSTIVE LIST...
For Ice Cream
Osteria del Gelato
Set up by multiple World Mountain Running Champions Marco de Gasperi and Elisa Desco, their approach to a traditional Italian gelateria is delightfully unconventional with an array of strictly legal performance-enhancing ice cream flavours, including vegan options, spirulina, and super healthy, home-made crackers and cakes.
For A RUSTIC RETREAT
Rifugio Federico in Dosdè
Set a few kilometres into the valley, this one is reachable only by bike or foot but it's worth every drop of sweat (although it's admittedly a very mellow hike to the rifugio). Run by Alpine stalwart and mountain legend Adriano Greco, expect a warm welcome, a delectable and substantial meal, clean mountain air and the best night's sleep around. From here the options for hiking, running and riding are UNREAL.
It might be set in the commercial zone but La Spia is a hip oasis of calm that serves delicious food and a very cool aperitivo. In summer their terrace is a great place to chill in the evenings. Ask them about their local wines; they know it all. Oh, and the manager is a mad keen runner too, so expect race presentations, product launches, and community runs.